Our puppies are used to living in a human baby playpen, and or EX Pen.
There is also a newer product a Pawmarks a Light weight xpen
mostly used for dog shows, but might be a good option for some people.
It is mandatory that you provide one of those options, for the baby. This is where he/she eats and sleeps.
Put bedding, toys, food, water (lixit bottle) at one end and a potty area at the other end.
Baby chin we keep, eat, sleep, travel and learn to be content in a cage, because we travel to shows.
If puppy is not on your lap or on a road trip, she should be in the playpen.
DO NOT let puppy roam your home, unattended.
Letting puppy roam loose, will chill and stress the puppy
not to mention completely un-housebreak puppy, and ruin all my hard work.
Puppies have been known to hop on chairs, just as owners were sitting down, resulting in a Tragic ending.
So always know where puppy is, at all times, until they learn to get out of the way.
Once puppy is 4-5 months old, they may play for longer periods of time (supervised)
but for now, we suggest a strict “in the lap or in the pen” policy.
Remember, keep puppy's world SMALL.
In the playpen a round donut or cuddle bed works well.
We also like to have one soft toy, a rubber squeaky toy and something for baby to chew
Cat toys without feathers, or toy breed specific, toys work well.
Once puppy is 10+ weeks you can introduce RAW bones such as a small Chicken Neck, etc.
That will aid in help with teething (espcially given frozen) and tire puppy out.
Also keep a litter type pan in the playpen. We have used cotton reusable pee pads
which end up being play toys for them, so we reccomend using a litter pan
with plastic grid flooring that make it impossible for them to get at the disposable pads.
I found the best price and sized pads in Costco (yellow box of 100).
I keep a plastic tray with grid top, by the patio door
and if I see any of my kids head there, I pop them outside
with a "lets go pee" and out they go. This helps them to learn the command too !
While my desire is that my Chin will NOT potty in the house,
with toy breeds, house training is not always possible, so next best thing is to have
a contingency plan, of a pee pad by the door for them to target.
If you have a huge house with huge rooms, that they have access to (over 6 months of age)
then I would advise a potty pee tray, placed in every room near the exit door.
As puppy matures and is not using the pee trays, then you can remove trays
just leaving the one by the house exit door.
Remember to set them up for success, not failure.
Some breeders will use kitty pan and litter made of newspaper or pine
Simply remove solid matter with a tissue and toss in the garbage.
The urine will turn the pellets into sawdust which may be dumped every week or so
on your outdoor garden. There is virtually no odor with this method
and keeps the baby cleaner than using pee pads or newspaper.
However I found my pups wanted to just play in, and eat those.
FEEDING:
NEVER, NEVER FORCE WATER DOWN A CHIN!
THEY WILL ASPIRATE AND GET PNEUMONIA.
If you feel your chin is ill or dehydrating
take her to a veterinarian immediately for SQ fluids.
Put baby in Playpen to eat and LEAVE HER ALONE!
It may take an hour or so for baby to settle down and eat.
Be sure to give 1/2 inch of Nutri-Cal every 3 hours
for the first month she’s in your home.
This is especially important at the first morning and last evening meals.
Check baby’s bottom daily to make sure there is no stool blocking the opening.
If your puppy is not eating or strains to eliminate, this is the first thing to check.
You may trim some of the long hair around the anus to prevent the sticking.
Shampoo and rinse any residual stool off as it will make the delicate skin there very sore.
If you do find a stool sticking and it has reddened the skin, any diaper rash treatment
for human babies such as Desitin or Vaseline may be applied.
Take care not to let the baby walk on surfaces where other dogs and puppies
have been i.e. parks, veterinary grounds, clinic floors, pet super stores, etc.
These places are loaded with bacteria and viruses that could make your baby sick.
ALWAYS have your puppy in a dog cage, when going to the VET and keep other dogs away.
Veterinary clinics are NOT the place to socialize your precious Chin puppy !
From 6 weeks to 1 year puppies are susceptible to many diseases.
********** VERY IMPORTANT **********
VOMITING:
It is not uncommon for a puppy to get carsick and vomit from a road trip.
This is minor. However, if your puppy vomits at home for no apparent reason,
call your vet immediately, this could be very serious. Most ailments are minor if treated early,
however, if a puppy is allowed to vomit several times, it will rapidly dehydrate.
The outcome can be deadly and it is up to you to turn this around by getting baby to a vet
if you even think he/she may have vomited. Do not wait.
HYPOGLYCEMIA:
This is a potentially serious problem in some toy dogs. If your puppy overplays
misses a meal or cries too long, his/her blood:sugar level can drop making her lethargic and weak.
In the event that this occurs you will need to immediately apply 1/2 inch of Nutri-cal,
Nutri-Stat, or Kayro syrup to the puppy’s tongue to raise her glucose level.
She should be much stronger in 15 minutes or so. If not, get to a veterinarian
who can give her fluids (dextrose) immediately. If your attending vet has not had experience with Japanese chin,
please stress to him that intolerance to IV fluids is a breed characteristic and warming the fluids
first will help to avoid throwing them into shock, causing more harm than good.
Many puppies who have shown no signs of illness will have a bout after certain vaccinations.
Never give leptospirosis or coronavirus vaccines as dogs have seizures and or died from them.
Do not let your puppy be vaccinated with combination shots
that contain leptospirosis or corona virus in them.
ALWAYS ask what is in the vaccine before your puppy gets a shot to make sure it is correct.
NEVER vaccinate for Rabies before 6 months of age. Dose is for an 80 lbs dog !!!
ALWAYS STAY with your puppy, if they won't let you LEAVE and find a Vet you can trust.
Also don’t vaccinate your puppy before our recommendations of when the next shot is due.
This has been known to bring about hypoglycemia, anorexia and even death.
Veering from our vaccination protocol will not only put your puppy in grave danger,
it will also void your guarantee. Other causes of hypoglycemia
are over-exertion, missed feedings, or stressing the puppy.
If your puppy seems limp, lethargic, or just wants to sleep, it’s blood:sugar level is dropping
and you will need to act immediately. Give 1/2 inch of Nutri-Stat, Nutri-Cal or Kayro syrup ASAP!
This should bring the baby around in about 15 minutes or so. If it doesn’t perk the puppy up,
run-don’t walk to your veterinarian for some immediate SQ fluids.
If this happens, how quickly you react will determine the outcome.
Keep in mind as well that once a puppy has been allowed to go hypoglycemic,
the likelihood of it reoccurring is much higher.
This is operator error. If you have been giving her Nutri-Stat every 3 hours
as we suggest, you’ll have no problem with hypoglycemia.
Chin do not do well outdoors for extended periods of time. Debris and wind will damage their eyes.
They do not tolerate temperatures above 80 degrees. They’re also sensitive to cold weather
due to their light body weight. A good gauge of their temperature tolerance
is to stand outside with no coat on and barefoot.
They will be as uncomfortable or comfortable as you!
COCCIDIOSIS:
This is a very minor ailment that all dogs are capable of breaking with when stressed, especially puppies.
Your puppy is free of coccidiosis at this time. However, with environment,
schedule, diet and water changes, he/she may break with it.
Your baby may have coccidia if you see mucous or a trace amount of blood in his/her stool.
Your vet will take a sample, examine it under a microscope. Cure for Coccidia is Baycox.
Never let them give your puppy any other medication for Coccidia, as issues will snow ball.
EAR MITES:
Check your babies ears from time to time for any foul smell or dark discharge.
Puppies are prone to mites especially if they are around cats.
There are several excellent, products available from your veterinarian
or feed store that are extremely effective in killing the mites.
Again, not a serious ailment and inexpensively remedied.
We recommend a product called Thornit. We order it from England.
After we bathe and dry our dogs, we put a pinch of it in their ears to keep them clean and dry.
This may be ordered on-line.
DIARRHEA:
If your baby has an off stool, she may have 2 cc's of plain flavored Kaopectate. (not peppermint flavored).
This may be repeated several times every 3-4 hours until stool is firm.
This is usually caused from too many tablescraps or canned food. However, it's much more important
that the baby eats than having a perfect stool, so do not eliminate chicken or canned food if he/she is eating well.
HERNIAS:
MOST Japanese Chin have hernias. This is not an ailment, but something your veterinarian may point out to you.
(Think “outsie” belly button). While it is up to you to have it repaired or not,
we can say with confidence that we have never experienced any complications from leaving them alone.
I have discussed this at length with many vets over the years and not one has ever seen a
hernia gone unchecked put a dog in grave danger. You may have it repaired if your dog is spayed or neutered,
but it is our opinion that the risk of any surgery far outweighs the potential danger of the hernia itself.
Having a puppy is just like having a human baby. It’s a constant battle of checks and balances.
The more observant you are, the healthier your baby will be.